What the study says

Plain-English summary

Researchers used GC-MS to target six phthalates and the alternative plasticizer DEHA in 100 cosmetics from seven categories sold in Malaysia. At least one target was detected in 67 products.

The indexed abstract reports DBP, BBP, or DEHP in 25 samples. That sample count is not a regulatory verdict or a market-prevalence estimate.

Malaysia's current NPRA Annex II lists DBP, DEHP, and BBP among substances that must not form part of cosmetic composition. That rule does not itself determine the status, source, or enforcement outcome of any coded sample.

The paper also reports margins of safety above 100 and estimated lifetime cancer risks below 1 × 10⁻⁵ under its assumptions and criteria. Those calculations are modeled estimates, not measurements of absorbed dose or observed health effects.

Why it matters

Context

Product concentration, composition compliance, modeled exposure, and observed human health effects are four separate questions. The NPRA composition rule and the paper's assumption-based exposure calculations use different decision frameworks, so neither can be used to erase or decide the other.

What it cannot prove

Limitations

This survey does not establish a violation, noncompliance, recall, or enforcement outcome. It does not support a market-prevalence estimate, and the coded samples must not be reverse-mapped to brands. The study measured product concentrations, not packaging sources, biomarkers, absorbed dose, symptoms, or disease. Its exposure and cancer-risk calculations depend on inputs and assumptions that could not be fully audited without the subscription-gated article methods. The study reports industry funding, and three authors are affiliated with the funder; the accessible conflict statement says the funder had no direct role in the listed study and publication activities. These results do not label a product safe, approved, harmless, or suitable for a shopping recommendation.

Proportionate next steps

Practical actions

  • Keep product concentration, composition compliance, modeled exposure, and observed health effects separate.
  • Use the NPRA's precise composition language; do not turn a coded detection into a violation or enforcement verdict.
  • Do not infer a brand, market prevalence, packaging source, absorbed dose, disease outcome, safety label, or shopping recommendation from this study.

Reader question

If a cosmetic contains a prohibited phthalate but its modeled exposure is below a risk threshold, is it compliant or safe?

Neither result erases the other. Malaysia's current Annex II lists DBP, BBP, and DEHP as substances that must not form part of cosmetic composition. The survey reports one or more of those chemicals in 25 coded samples, which raises a question for regulatory review. Separately, its modeled exposures stayed within the margin-of-safety and lifetime-cancer-risk criteria the authors applied. That model does not determine compliance, and a laboratory detection does not prove a person received a harmful dose.

What did the researchers actually test?

They used GC-MS to target six phthalates and the alternative plasticizer DEHA in 100 cosmetics from seven categories sold in Malaysia. This was product testing, not a study of people or health outcomes.

Why can a prohibited-substance result and a low modeled-risk result appear together?

A composition rule asks whether a listed substance forms part of a cosmetic. A risk model asks whether estimated exposure under stated assumptions crosses a selected benchmark. A sample can raise the first question while remaining below the second model's criterion.

Does detection prove that a consumer absorbed that amount?

No. Concentration in a product is an input to an exposure estimate, not a measured internal dose. Actual absorption depends on use, route, amount, frequency, and chemical-specific assumptions.

Can this study tell me which product or brand to avoid?

No. The public evidence uses coded samples and does not support a brand-level or shopping recommendation. A product-specific conclusion would require current identity and formulation evidence plus regulator interpretation.

Read it yourself

Original source

Phthalates and Di(2-Ethylhexyl) Adipate (DEHA) in Cosmetics Available in Malaysia: Exposure, Health Risks, and Regulatory Considerations

DOI: 10.1002/jat.70481

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Supporting sources